Top 10 Places to Visit (And Eat) in Baku, Azerbaijan
Baku, the capital of Azerbaijan, is a city of two million, and a prolific oil producer.
People travel to Baku for business trips or conferences.
I am all but that.
We were on a two-week trip around the Caucasus, and Azerbaijan was our next destination after Georgia.
Baku surprises me with its futuristic skyscrapers, beautiful baroque-style architecture and organised and clean streets.
The Caucasus is my first foray into a land many in my circle of friends would not have heard of. Azerbaijan? Where is that? I suppose that has changed now that my fellow countrymen have learnt about the Singapore-bound flight diversion to Baku from Paris. And on the treasured carrier, the Singapore Airlines, no less.
The main religion in the country is Islam, but its government is intensely secular – something foreign to the neighbouring countries of Singapore.
But there are also some strange rules like no photography at the national flag square, no kissing at the Fountain Square, and no discussing anything untoward about the regime.
In this post, I will share with you the places of interest and eateries of Baku city.
I made this trip back in Aug 2019.
Places of Interest
Heydar Aliyev International Airport
Most backpackers enter and leave Azerbaijan by rail. If that is you, do not forget to visit their international airport!
Heydar Aliyev International Airport is known as the most modernistic airport of post-USSR. It has a minimalist and efficient website and is a Skytrax 5-star Airport recipient. From the air, the terminal resembles a mothership with planes docked to its sides.
Fountain Square
Any backpackers would have to bypass Fountain Square before making their way into the Old City.
It has, as its name implies, a variety of eccentric fountains scattered across its expanse.
Restaurants, boutiques, shops and bars fill up the rest. The square gets crowded after business hours and on the weekends.
Old City
Icheri Sheher, the old city of Baku, is a maze that is a pleasure to lose oneself.
Stepping through its towering walls, we came face to face with an entirely different landscape. Instead of the tall modern skyscrapers on the outside, you get pastel-coloured walls and ancient palaces.
Wander down the streets in the quieter parts of the old town and find yourself stumbling into the hidden art galleries and quirky shops.
Beware of the touts and beggars hanging around the congested gate into the old town. And do not forget to haggle for your souvenirs – a handy tip from our walking tour guide.
Maiden Tower
Through the eyes of an outsider, the maiden tower is an ugly unsymmetrical building that resembles an old silo. But this building is a national emblem, once printed behind the country’s manat.
According to our guide, this tower was part of Zoroastrianism. The religion worships fire. It could have been a lighthouse by the sea, or a defence tower to spot intruders.
But how about the maiden?
Our guide simplified it to a cliche tale of a heartbroken lady who died on the tower.
Yet the man grew animated when we probed him for more stories.
He churned out theories involving the seven scattered windows, the positions of certain protruding blocks, and the rocks used to construct the tower. Of which, the strangest tale fit for a Dan Brown novel was the rationale behind protecting the building – something along the line of unknown super forces or unspeakable secrets that could lead to mass destruction.
Whatever the speculations, those interested in climbing the tower could do so for a small fee. Those who are claustrophobic – be warned!
Cost: 15 manats | Time: Daily from 9 AM - 6 PM
Shirvanshah’s Palace
Shirvanshah’s Palace, built by a 15th-century Shirvanshah king, was to be either his abode or a place of worship. The folks in UNESCO described it as a gem of Azerbaijan’s ancient architecture.
Shirvanshah’s Palace may be attractive for UNESCO chasers, architecture geeks or history fanatics. But our guide discouraged us from visiting due to its ticket price, petite size, and lack of – according to the guide – engaging attractions.
Cost: 15 manats | Time: Every day from 10 AM - 6 PM
Carpet Museum
The Carpet Museum is designed to be like what it holds.
The Azerbaijan National Carpet Museum has the biggest collection of Azerbaijan carpets in the world, with carpets spanning distinct periods and weaved using different techniques and materials.
Cost: 7 manats (adult) | Time: Weekdays 10 AM - 6 PM, Weekends 10 AM - 8 PM. Closed on Monday.
Heydar Mosque
Heydar Mosque, the largest mosque in the Caucasus, requires a bit more planning to reach as it is in the suburbs.
Construction of this grand mosque was completed in 2014, featuring beautiful ancient Azerbaijani architectural styles.
The mosque looks pretty at night with its exterior lit.
As time was not on our side, we left the mosque out. Stay safe when travelling to this neighbourhood at night.
Advice: Uber your way there
Upland Park
Upland Park is the best and, most importantly, a free vantage point to see Baku city.
Try not to visit the park during the day unless you do not mind being blinded by the reflected sunlight from the polished white marble floor.
Baku’s iconic Flame Towers dance in colourful lights every night, and the park is the best place to enjoy this sight.
Just bear in mind the sheer number of steps needed to reach the top. If the thought of it tires you, pay for the funicular.
Locals love to hang out in this park too. We saw parents with kids on tricycles, lovers in embrace, and groups of friends.
The park is also the home to the Martyr’s Alley, which remembers the soldiers killed in the Black January of 1990 and the Nagorno-Karabakh War of 1988–1994. Shahidlar Monument, a memorial dedicated to the fallen Ottoman soldiers of WWI, is just around the corner.
Baku Flame Towers
It does not take much imagination to see what the towers represent.
The flame towers come alive after dark in a colourful light show.
Each tower serves different functions. They are either designed for living, vacation stays, or business.
Another theory suggests that the towers resemble the pointy bits of a pomegranate – the king of fruits in Azerbaijan. Our free walking tour guide claimed that Azerbaijan is the only country in the world that grows every variety of pomegranates.
National Flag Square
The square once held the tallest flagpole in the world (162 m), until Tajikistan took over with their pole at 165 m. The Saudis claimed the title shortly after with a 171 m pole.
Baku Noms
Xezer Cafe
A cosy and affordable restaurant serving the best Dolma I have ever eaten.
We visited the cafe twice to sample their 2-manat one-pint local beer, Shah’s Pilaf and Dolma.
Location: Underground, just opposite Dolma’s Restaurant
Dolma’s Restaurant
Dolma’s Restaurant was comparatively more modern than Xezer. We shared their Entrecot and Shaf’s Pilaf.
The eatery had a long walkway that branched out to voids holding four to six tables each.
They have several waiters taking orders, but service erred on the slow side even though the place was not crowded. The restaurant also lacked the cosiness of Xezer.
Location: Along Mammadamin Rasul-Zadeh Street, 53 ул. Истиглалият, Baku, Azerbaijan
Firuze Restaurant
This is another affordable and delicious restaurant within the vicinity.
Be prepared to strain your neck from gazing at the beautiful painting on its ceilings as you wait for your food. Maybe that is the reason for the large mirrors installed on the walls.
Location: 14 Tarlan Aliyarbeyov, Baku 1005, Azerbaijan
Simit Sarayi
Simit Sarayi is a popular cafe franchise in Azerbaijan for breakfast or snacks.
We had our breakfasts here every day as the cafe was a stone throw’s away from our hostel.
Location: 83 Nizami, Bakı 1005, Azerbaijan
A hole-in-the-wall pastry shop
We wandered around the neighbourhood and spotted this cafe selling Turkish delight, freshly baked bread and cakes.
An earthen oven sits in the store, with a madame making lavash bread at the back.
Apologies for forgetting the coordinates!
Places Beyond Baku
Azerbaijan is a big country. You could effortlessly whirl away a week (or even two).
But when you have a job to fulfil and limited annual leaves to ration, there are only so many places you could go!
For my two-week-long trip in the Caucasus, I spent less than half of that in Azerbaijan. Instead of touring the mainland, I spent two days in land-locked Nakhchivan and took day trips out to Shamaki and Gabala. More on this in a separate post.
And that is all from me, for now. See you in the next post!
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