Silence Beckons in Doubtful Sound

Visiting Doubtful Sound was one of my best excursions in New Zealand.

People knew about Milford Sound but rarely about her other quiet cousin.

For me, Milford Sound is like a party; she holds dramatic landscapes – big crashing waterfalls and towering cliffs. Doubtful Sound, in contrast, is all about peace and calm – taking things slow and savouring the sounds of nature.

My Doubtful Sound Excursion

Blast to the past, about a year ago.

I was transitioning between jobs and moving from calf rearing to hops training. It was late October.

With two weeks to spare, what should I do?

Horse riding in Glenorchy, cruise in Doubtful Sound, eight hours on Ben Lomond again, Milford Track, Heaphy Track.

We met a friend in Queenstown who had returned from his overnight expedition in Doubtful Sound. He was all for it. It was a steal, at $249, for a quad bunk with a generous buffet and kayak thrown in. I doubt the price would resurface once travel resumes post-pandemic.

We would not have fully understood the mesmerising effect of Doubtful Sound if not for the mist and fog the rain threw on us. Neither would we have fully appreciated the scale of its size if not for the clear weather. And in between the rain, mist and sun, we saw rainbows at every corner.

The cruise took us on a loop from the Deep Cove.

We spied some dolphins, took note of waterfalls and cliffs and kayaked a little towards the sea.

Food was plenty on board – muffins, soup, a plethora of beautiful dishes for dinner, and a generous spread of sweet dessert. We were spoilt.

We spent a night resting in one of the arms by the Sound. Rain pelted on the cruise all night but stopped just in time for our detour back.

A dense layer of fog shrouded the visage we enjoyed yesterday. The same cliffs and waterfalls had taken on a new appearance. It was as though we had entered a new world.

Milford Sound has some of the biggest and grandest waterfalls. But it does not deliver the serenity we experienced in Doubtful Sound. It was tranquillity throughout the journey, exemplified further by a moment of silence when the skipper turned off the engine.

We also savoured the water that nourished the Sound. Tinted water that has travelled miles untouched by man to land in the glass I was holding. It tasted sweet and refreshing.

---

Useful Travel Tips

• Real Journeys allows for a carry-on pack on board per passenger.
• Bring swimwear. We saw some daredevils jumping off the boat into the icy cold water. Maybe that is for you too?
• Bring waterproof gear and wear anti-slip shoes.
• Put on earplugs if sharing a quad bunk.

---

Video