Northland: A 5-day Campervan Trip Itinerary
Northland is this funny longish place in the northernmost part of New Zealand, separated from the other states of New Zealand by busy Auckland.
It is relatively remote, and requires lots of getting around, but has lots of activities to offer too – from caves and giant trees to sand dunes and scuba diving! Not forgetting the northernmost lighthouse at Cape Reinga!
Brief background: After a week of working in a mansion in a suburban part of Auckland under HelpX as free labour under a demanding host, we saw a juicy discount from JUCY. My partner then and I decided we had enough of this HelpX nonsense and rented a campervan to escape Auckland – literally escape as Auckland went into a two-week lockdown the day we left the messy city for good. Oh, the joy of leaving Auckland!
So what happens when one is in Northland and a lockdown is in Auckland, and the person has to get to the rest of New Zealand? Well, we went through that. More about this below!
I visited Northland in Mar 2021 while on a two-year-long Working Holiday in New Zealand due to the pandemic. This post contains affiliate links that cost nothing to you but support my blog! It may also be updated periodically. Cheers!
Our Itinerary
We drove down to Mangere, somewhere close to the Auckland Airport, to pick up our Jucy campervan in the morning. More about the campervan review here for your curious perusal!
In retrospect, Northland is an excellent place for campers. It’s great for those checking on their comfort level of living in a camper life for their long-term travels in New Zealand and for travellers short on time to enjoy driving and stopping wherever they see fit.
Aside from the nerve-wracking drive from busy Auckland with its confusing highways, the roads in Northland are smooth sailing with little traffic but ample camping spots and beautiful coastal views.
This post is written from the point of view of travelling on a campervan. But you can rearrange the schedule as you see fit if you are travelling with your car.
Day 1: Auckland to Waipu Caves in Whangarei
There are two expressways from Auckland to Northland: (1) Highway 1; and (2) Highway 16. Highway 1 may be faster since it has toll fees.
The Waipu Caves
We covered a good 170 km or 3 hours of travelling to our first stop: The Waipu Caves in Whangarei.
It was almost 2 pm when we found ourselves in the carpark of Waipu Caves Scenic Preserve. Take caution as you drive the last stretch of unsealed gravel road to Waipu!
Come prepared with grippy shoes as there’s a bit of trekking from the carpark to the entrance of the cave, then another short trek into the slippery, and maybe wet, chamber of Waipu Caves. Around 10 minutes of walking in a forest? Nothing too taxing, but the way to the entrance can be easily missed, so check the signage carefully.
Having seen a plethora of mountainscapes and waterfalls in New Zealand, caves were new to me then. Adding to this novel highlight is the abundance of glow worms within Waipu! And they are free!
I think we spent a good two hours exploring all the possible elevated platforms and partially submerged tunnels, and waiting for the unending crowd with their shockingly bright phone lights or headlamps to disperse from the caves for our low-light photos. We also caught an avid photographer who told us he’d be stationed in the cave for another couple of hours to capture long exposure shots of the glow worms. Good grief!
Wear shorts if you’d like to waddle through the half-submerged low-ceiling tunnel.
Since it is wet within the caves, check that the weather has been dry for the last few days, forecasted to remain dry on the day of your visit as well, since the caves can be flooded relatively quickly.
Waipu Caves aside, the Waitomo Caves – also in the North Island – are probably the most popular and iconic caves in NZ to spot the glow worms for any newcomers. But visits to this big cave system aren’t free, if it is only the glow worms you’d like to see. Nonetheless, splurging on the Waitomo Caves for a 7-hour caving expedition was well worth our money, and I have to say, the spread of glow worms within my visit is at least 10 times more than that size at Waipu, and as numerous as the stars that flood the night skies of New Zealand!
Other Attractions in Whangarei
We didn’t have the time to visit other attractions around Whangarei after sorting out the logistics of getting our campervan and the long drive.
But if you’re covering Northland at a much more leisurely pace, check out the Whangarei Falls, a Bird Recovery Centre, and Mount Manaia.
Whangarei Falls is no doubt a beautiful 26 m tall cascade. But having seen the tallest Sutherland Falls during our Milford Track, and many other falls scattered around the South Island, we had enough. Besides, there are many more falls up north from Whangarei.
Abbey Caves used to be an adventurous caving attraction in Whangarei. It’s a moderately challenging cave route requiring all limbs and good fitness. The caves were open for visits during our time in the Northland in 2021. However, they are likely closed for the long term, following the death of a student and the debate on the sacredness of the cave in Maori culture.
Time your hike up Mount Manaia to coincide with the sunrise or sunset. This is a 4 km return track offering breathtaking views of Whangarei Harbour.
If your visit happens on a weekday, swing by the Bird Recovery Centre to see rescued birds, including the elusive nocturnal kiwis, for free!
Free Campsite: Kowharewa Bay
We camped for free at Kowharewa Bay that evening – a short drive from Tutukaka – our next destination for underwater exploration.
Accommodations around Whangarei
If you do not have a camper, there are rooms for two under NZ$150 a night with relatively good reviews in Whangarei. Some examples include the Regent Residential Villa and the Stonehaven Motel.
The Lodge Bordeaux is an entire studio with a kitchen and spa bath.
Or you could travel south of Whangarei city centre to enjoy the sea view at Tamaterau Seaview House or the Beach Lane Apartment.
Taurikura Bay Relax and Explore is a recommended place to stay near Mt Manaia to take advantage of its proximity to the mountain for a sunrise or sunset hike. Plus it’s also by the beach!
Day 2: Diving in The Poor Knights Islands
Your second day could be a deep tour around Whangarei.
For me, it was an underwater excursion around The Poor Knights Islands.
Marine activities at The Poor Knights Islands
The late French oceanographer Jacques Cousteau rated The Poor Knights Islands as one of the top 10 dive spots in the world. Since I’m already in this part of the world when there’s a global pandemic but we are still free to travel, it’s a shame not to check on the place he mentioned.
And so, we signed up with one of the dive shops around the bay. Reserve in advance, now that the world has returned to normal, and everyone’s travelling with a vengeance, or risk facing disappointment!
Not certified for scuba diving? Fret not! There are ocean cruises featuring activities like snorkelling and kayaking around the islands. You’d still enjoy yourself plentifully in this tentative World Heritage Site.
Diving in New Zealand is very different from the dives I have done so far, which isn’t much to begin with. I had less than 25 dives under my belt by the time I took the plunge at The Poor Knights, and they were in the warm tropical waters near the equator. Here in the northernmost state of New Zealand, the sea remains cold at 16°C despite it being a hot summer morning.
Read more about my dive experience here.✨ We dived twice, and spent the intermission cruising around sights like a sea cave and wall arches.
Accommodations around Tutukaka
Since the scuba diving package was a full-day activity that left us tired, cold and hungry, we paid to stay at a powered campsite in the Tutukaka Holiday Park that evening. The park comes with comforting hot showers and a well-equipped and spacious kitchen. We had Japanese curry that day!
If you’d like to stay somewhere with more privacy and better views and facilities, browse through Quality Hotel Oceans or Marina Vista Cabin. Both are reasonably priced, have beautiful rooms, and are close to the dive shops.
But if you don’t mind driving a bit further, check out Tutukaka Sunrise for its incredible coastal views, hospitable hosts and delicious homemade breakfast sourced from local shops!
Day 3: Heading North
The third day of our campervan adventure was a long day on the road peppered with several stops. Our final objective that day was to camp at the northernmost campsite of New Zealand – Camp Tapotupotu.
You could lengthen the trip from one day to a relaxing two days, spending a day, perhaps, visiting the Bay of Islands for some island hopping, Rawhiti for a hike to picturesque Cape Brett Lighthouse, or Russell for the first permanent European settlement and seaport in New Zealand.
Paihia
After a hearty breakfast of pancakes and jam, we drove for about an hour to the first stop of the day: Paihia.
Paihia is a small town with nothing much to do unless one takes the ferry at their wharf to Russell or strolls their beaches. And because it is small, it has the smallest Countdown in New Zealand at 237 sqm (until Dec 2021 when the store at Wanaka claimed the title for a 140 sqm shop)!
If you like museums or want to learn about Maori culture, head over to the Waitangi Treaty Grounds. Tickets cost NZD 50 then for a two-day pass. We gave that a miss as our interest lies in nature. Locals are entitled to half price.
Waterfalls
There’s a stunning fall not too far from Paihia called Haruru Falls. But having seen several grand cascades in New Zealand, Haruru was a little disappointing.
After Haruru, we travelled another 25 km to Rainbow Falls at Kerikeri. As the name suggests, Rainbow Falls does have many rainbows.
Mangonui Fish Shop
Between the Rainbow Falls and our campsite for the night, we had our most expensive but yummiest battered fish in New Zealand at Mangonui Fish Shop. At about NZD 7/ 100g (then) of your typical hoki fish, I could only say the steep price I’m paying is for the exceptionally thick and delicious fried batter on the fresh fish.
You can purchase other seafood from the shop.
Lake Rotopokaka
We continued our journey north to visit Northland’s best-kept secret – Coca-Cola Lake, or its official name, Lake Rotopokaka.
The lake has a rusty-brown hue like a diluted Coca-Cola that contains too much ice. Peat and tannins in the closed lake stained it a delicious brown. You could swim in the lake during the midday when it is warmer. Our visit in the late afternoon was too cold for a dip.
Free Campsite: Camp Tapotupotu
Planning to stay at Camp Tapotupotu as well?
Then be prepared for a bit of an adventure getting there.
The campsite is down a hilly, unsealed road that took us a nervous 10 minutes to reach from Highway 1. While the journey is bumpy, it’s well worth the effort once you arrive.
We saw a campsite by a beautiful bay, although the waves looked menacingly fierce. Exercise caution if you plan on getting close to the water.
During our stay, we were the only few parked in the area, which made for a peaceful and secluded experience. The sound of white water breaking on the sand lulled us to sleep – a welcome change from our travels.
Other accommodations around Cape Reinga
Unfortunately, there aren’t any accommodations at the tip of Northland. Your closest lodgings are found in Te Kao, like the Tekao Lodge, or at Pukenui, like the Pukenui Holiday Park, a Motel, or an entire holiday home.
For those on a budget but don’t want to rough it out at the campsite, consider staying around the junction of Highway 1 and other highways. Those towns have dormitory rooms with reasonably good reviews. Examples include the Beachcomber Lodge at Kaitaia and Endless Summer Lodge or a Holiday Park at Ahipara.
It takes around 90 mins of driving, covering over 100 km, from the junction to Cape Reinga, which we shall explore on Day 4 of my campervan adventure.
If you find that tiring, consider basing yourself at Paihia and taking a hassle-free guided day tour to Cape Reinga and the sand dunes of Te Paki the following day. Some budget backpackers include the Centabay Lodge and Haka Lodge. Couples may enjoy the additional comfort and privacy with Sea Spray Suites or the fancy Edgewater Palms Apartment.
Day 4: Cape Reinga Lighthouse and the Giant Sand Dunes
Having spent Day 3 travelling over 270 km from Tutukaka to Cape Reinga, we took it slow on Day 4, accomplishing just two attractions along that stretch of land.
Cape Reinga Lighthouse
After a leisurely breakfast by the bay, we drove to Cape Reinga Lighthouse at the tip of the North Island.
The lighthouse is one of the first lights shipping vessels observe as they arrive from the North. Cape Reinga was built to replace another lighthouse built nearby at Motuopao Island that proved too difficult to access.
After the death of a lighthouse assistant’s wife around the old lighthouse, a decision was finally made to relocate the lighthouse to a more favourable position. And that was how Cape Reinga, the last watched lighthouse in New Zealand, was built in 1941.
That aside, Cape Reinga is also tapu or sacred for the Maori.
According to Maori legend, their spirits leap off from the northernmost tip of the Cape marked by an ancient pohutukawa tree, to their ancestral homeland of Hawaiki.
The Far North is also closest in climate to East Polynesia, and where the great explorer Kupe became the first person to land on Aotearoa.
As you marvel at the sight from Cape Reinga Lighthouse, don’t forget to observe the white flurry where the Tasman Sea meets the Pacific Ocean – that might have been the gate to the Maori underworld.
Sand Surfing at Te Paki
We left Cape Reinga and drove another 20 km to the Giant Dunes of Te Paki.
I’ve done hiking, skydiving, scuba diving, and snowboarding in New Zealand. And now I could add sand surfing/ boarding to the list!
We rented a sandboard for NZD 15 at the carpark and spent at least two hours struggling up and sliding down the dunes. The climb obviously took a disproportionate amount of time and effort.
Thinking of visiting Cape Reinga and Te Paki but don’t have a car or don’t want to spend hours driving? Check out this tour from Paihia, which I think is not bad, considering the ease of finding a budget place to stay and eat at Paihia.
Free Campsite: Two Ponga Park
Our last night in the campervan was spent in a neighbourhood park at Okaihau, near Lake Omapere in the middle of Northland, since we had to return the van to Auckland the next day.
Nothing fancy like the campsites of previous nights. It is, after all, a neighbourhood park near Highway 1. We heard loud cars and people talking at night.
For those without campers, take the day tour from Paihia – which you’d return to Paihia for the evening – or stay around the Ahipara/ Kaitaia area, as I have mentioned above.
For us, we wanted to visit the largest tree in New Zealand, which is located on the west coast of Northland. There’s nothing particularly interesting – at least for me, if not you could check out the places listed here – on the west coast apart from the giant Kauri tree, and more Kauri trees, and hence its nickname, the Kauri Coast.
Day 5: Tane Mahuta and Auckland in lockdown
Visiting Tane Mahuta, aka Lord of The Forest, in Waipoua Forest was somewhat out of the way for us. Instead of the fastest highway towards Auckland, we took the Kauri Coast Highway 12. It was a long and bumpy ride to the big tree.
Tane Mahuta lives up to its name and is the biggest tree I have ever seen thus far. Given its size, it is obvious the tree is ancient. Some estimates put it as 1250 to 2500 years, meaning the tree is on the land before any humans set foot on its shore.
As Kauri trees are fighting against a vicious fungi disease called Kauri dieback, it is our responsibility to clean our shoes dutifully before entering the park. This deadly fungus can easily hitch onto shoes from infected soil to the pristine Kauri forest and kill the trees. I wouldn’t want the sagely-looking and hardy Tane Mahuta to die just because of us human beings. That would have been a shame!
Back to Auckland in lockdown
Having come to the end of our campervan vacation, we drove back to Auckland and returned the van.
That sounds easy, except that Auckland was in a lockdown.
Days before the end of our trip, we pondered if we should extend our vacation and made numerous web searches on travelling during the lockdown. We do not want to be stuck in Auckland. Calling Jucy led to nowhere.
Relying on what we had gathered on the New Zealand pandemic website, we drove to the Northland-Auckland border, hoping for the best. The police, large light boards and checks felt as though we were crossing over to another country.
A policeman checked our passports, my then partner’s driver’s licence, and our campervan booking. It took less than 15 mins to get all the checks done, and we were back in Auckland. We were told to drop the van and get out of Auckland ASAP.
After returning the van, we packed our stuff into our car and drove to the Auckland-Waikato border. Crossing this border was equally efficient. The police on duty checked our reasons – we were going for Kiwi packing in Te Puke – and the registered address of our car – it was Motueka, where I did apple packing.
And then, we were on our way to Tauranga, towards Te Puke. It would not have gone well if the car was registered in Auckland.
Safety in the Northland
These are rumours, and I have no factual evidence to point out the safety in the state apart from hearsay from friends and posts from other travellers on car theft and shady people on the CamperMate app and Facebook pages. Nonetheless, I thought I should still pen down this in a section since these thoughts trouble me.
Common sense should be practised when leaving your vehicles unattended. Our travel within Northland was smooth sailing, and we did not encounter any unhappy incidents.
Then again, anywhere in New Zealand could be a place of crime.
We experienced our car burglary in South Island when our car was involved in an accident that subsequently led to it being left unattended by a remote highway near Kaikoura. More on this here if that has piqued your interest!
Conclusion and Rambles
I hope my Northland campervan adventure can be helpful in your planning.
Five days would not be sufficient if you want to take it slow and visit more attractions, like Russell, or island hopping at the Bay of Islands. Or maybe more time lounging by the sea or trying surfing.
As with all travels, check the weather beforehand and drive safely!
After leaving Northland, there was still time before peak Kiwi season. We continued our North Island exploration, completing two Great Walks back to back – hiking at the Tongariro Northern Circuit and canoeing down the Whanganui River Track.
You can read all my New Zealand posts here, which include the jobs I did, hikes I’ve done and places I’d recommend you visit too!
For all those under 30 wishing to travel and work in New Zealand like I did, you can read about the Working Holiday Visa here.
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