32 Stops in Nelson Tasman
The region of Nelson Tasman held many special memories for me. This was where I spent a chunk of my New Zealand Working Holiday. I shucked mussels, packed apples, trained hops and spent the lockdown in Nelson Tasman.
The small town Motueka – 30 mins west of Nelson City – held particular fondness. After three uneasy weeks finding work in Queenstown and a month building up my finances in Christchurch, Motueka was where I found myself within a huge family of working holidaymakers.
In this post, we will explore the attractions to visit and grocery stores to shop to cater for short-term travellers and long-term workers.
I was in New Zealand from 2020 – 2022. Post may be updated periodically.
Map
Motueka and about
This sunny little town is colourful with shops lined up by its major highway – Highway 60. Strolling down the shops can be a fun afternoon activity.
Motueka used to be quieter when I first arrived in Feb 2020. However, the town had since grown visibly busier when I returned in Oct 2021. Perhaps the massive covid lockdown made people rethink their life choices. New traffic lights were installed over several places, notably its busiest cross-junction – no more fretting over at the intersection for novice drivers.
Sunday Market
The Motueka Sunday Market is a must-visit if you have a Sunday to spare. If not, head over to Nelson on a Saturday for the Saturday Market.
Stock up on your fresh and affordable fruits and vegetables, indulge in homemade bratwurst sandwiches and cheeses, and support family-owned small businesses.
Finding a place to park your car could be a chore. Choose to carpool, park further from the market or go earlier.
Location: Decks Reserve Carpark, Motueka 7120
The Smoking Barrel
The Smoking Barrel is famous for its donuts, but I have yet to try any of their sweet fried creations as we were usually too full after the mains.
The cafe has a beautiful interior with a retro car set up as the barista station, and a glass cabinet adorned with pastries.
Location: 105 High Street, Motueka 7120
Real Fruit Ice Cream at Thomas Brother
Granted that the ice cream shop is in Riwaka and not Motueka, but Riwaka is just a bridge away from its sister town.
Real Fruit Ice Cream is something I miss dearly. The Ice Cream is, as its name suggests, using frozen fruit mixed with ice cream or frozen yoghurt. My go-to combination is frozen blackberry ice cream. My favourite combination is with feijoa, which I had in a nondescript shop in Napier while picking blueberries.
Location: 484 Main Road Riwaka, Nelson 7198
Motueka District Museum
The Motueka District Museum is a small and quirky museum nestled within a line of shops. Check out the history of this small town through the paraphernalia donated by the residents over the years.
Bonus: they have a library of names that went back to the pioneer generation, which is an incredible resource for those interested to trace their family tree.
Visiting the museum is free though a gold coin is appreciated.
Location: 140 High Street, Motueka 7120
Entrance to the Abel Tasman National Park
The Abel Tasman Coastal Track is one of the ten Great Walks scattered around New Zealand. Unlike the other walks, this coastal track does not need advanced hiking expertise. Water taxis support the track, making it ideal for those wanting to try multi-day trekking and camping before hitting the more secluded trails.
Sky Diving in Abel Tasman
Calling out to all adrenaline junkies! There are several spots to skydive around New Zealand, but if it is the view of the Cook Straits and the two islands you’re after, then go for it in Abel Tasman.
I sky-dived over Wanaka during winter as I was looking for snow-capped peaks and mountains.
Fruit stalls
There are plenty of stalls selling fresh produce outside the entrances of most orchards in Riwaka. Payment is made to the honesty bucket or a bank transfer. We often scout for fresh apples, pears and kumara during harvest season.
Kaiteriteri
The golden beach of Kaiteriteri is a great getaway during summer. Warmer months make it suitable for surfing, camping and lazing under the sun.
Some parts of the beaches may have an abundance of shellfish. A fellow housemate prawned in the dead of night and did not return empty-handed.
Mountain Bike Park
The park has a range of trails to suit different levels of bikers. We tried on our newly rented and borrowed bikes in the park before heading to the Heaphy Track.
Location: 37 Martin Farm Road, Kaiteriteri 7197
Split Apple Rock
This is a strange piece of almost perfectly round boulder split halfway in the middle of nowhere on the sea.
According to the Maori legend, two gods fought over the rock, and they probably split it into two from the fight. Scientifically, seawater within the rock’s crevices expanded during the ice age and split it open.
The rock makes for some pretty photos when taken from a kayak.
Location: Moonraker Way, Kaiteriteri 7197
Richmond and about
Richmond is 30-min from Motueka via Highway 60. Unlike Motueka, this town, sometimes mistaken as a suburb of Nelson, is more of a hub for food and shopping.
We visited Richmond to stock up on groceries.
Old Factory Corner
My favourite grocery stop in the Nelson Tasman region, where I could find the best and freshest local farm produce while enjoying a cone of real fruit ice cream.
Location: 151 McShane Road, Complex, Appleby 7081
Connings Food Market
Connings Food Market would be my first stop. The market opens every day.
During the peak harvest seasons of 2020 and 2021, avocados were selling at five for NZD 3.50. The shop also sells a variety of crisp lettuces – fancy, purple, iceberg, romaine – and potatoes. Fresh and affordable food makes me happy.
Berry Lands Pop Up
My next stop could be dollops of delicious ice cream just outside the food market. Berry Lands Pop Up opens daily, with longer operating hours during summer.
The Junction
I have been there a couple of times for their array of cheeses. The Junction sells wines to pair with the cheeses, and jams and jellies to pair with the crackers. They also have raw milk and Appleby Farms ice cream.
GoodFor
GoodFor is the most recent addition and features pantry foods and household goods sold without unnecessary packaging. Their motto is to ‘introduce slower living to the world’ and encourage customers to make good choices for themselves and everyone.
Ewing Poultry
Stock up on some big, fresh and affordable free-range eggs at Ewing Poultry. The family-run business has 20 jumbo eggs selling for NZD 5.50. They are open from 7 AM to 4.30 PM on the weekdays.
Location: 83 Main Road Hope, Hope 7020
PYO at 185
PYO is another place to buy fresh food. It opens on the weekdays from Dec-Apr, and only on Fridays during winter.
Location: 185 Main Road Hope, Hope 7020
Raeward Fresh Wholesale
Raeward sells fresh food too, but it is the meat I go for. There are two stores – the wholesaler opposite Richmond Mall and a small corner shop on Salisbury Street. We would usually go for the latter.
Location: Cnr Champion, Salisbury Road, Richmond 7020 (the corner shop) or 41 McGlashen Avenue, Richmond 7020 (Wholesale)
Richmond Mall
What can I say – Pak n Save, Fresh Choice for your sundries.
Nelson and about
Sunny city Nelson! I love Nelson for its city vibes and convenience. It is not cluttered and chaotic. Nelson is slick with several attractive shops to check out, and delicious cafes to spend the afternoons.
Nelson has cleverly designed green parks for picnickers to enjoy the nice sunny weather.
Saturday Farmers’ Market
Similar to the Sunday Market in Motueka but double the size. This farmers’ market features more shops selling handicrafts and apparel.
Location: Montgomery Square Carpark
Asian Grocery Stores
The Asian stores are especially important for Asians living in New Zealand for some time. Most of them are around the Sunday Market.
CJ Asian is the biggest mart in the neighbourhood. The Korean joint has shops all over New Zealand. Other smaller shops include The Asian Food Store and Kee’s Mart.
If you’re preparing for a hotpot party, source for your fresh veg from the Sunday Market, and the processed food, soup base and frozen meats at the Asian shops.
Location: Montgomery Square Carpark
Burger Culture
Burger Culture is the best burger on the Upper South Island. Ferg is still the best in New Zealand. The burgers in this joint are inspired by celebrities, i.e. Hennifer Lopez, a grilled chicken thigh burger and Bluno Mars, a beef patty with blue cheese.
Location: 279 Trafalgar Street, Nelson 7010
Paasha Nelson (Now NYSA Turkish Restaurant)
Paasha sells a delectable range of dishes to satisfy your Mediterranean appetite. If you are looking for a quick fix, go for some kebabs. I had their Paasha platter twice with a handful of hungry friends.
Location: 161 Hardy Street, Nelson 7010
Teaology Milk Tea
This newly opened boba shop serves some al dente boba. It also has a variety of flavours to choose from.
Location: 163 Hardy Street, Nelson 7010
Centre of New Zealand Monument
If you are keen to put this on your been-there list. It is an easy 2 km return walk.
Location: Atop Botanical Hill (147 m)
Cable Bay Walkway
This one-way tramp, about 30-min from Nelson via Highway 6, features a pebbly beach and a rather steep climb up private farmland. What awaits is a view that extends beyond Nelson City and the Abel Tasman National Park. The contrast in colour between the dark blue sea of Tasman Bay and the light blue waters of Cable Bay was especially memorable to me.
A group of us did a return trip from the end of the forest for a perfect half-day tour.
Location: Glenduan or Cable Bay (we chose the latter)
Nelson Lakes National Park
This national park has several lakes and walks to suit all fitness levels.
If you are looking for the best weekend trip, try the overnight tramp to Angelus Hut. We completed the track via the Robert Ridge route and down via the Speargrass Creek track. It could be challenging for some, but the process of getting there was well worth all the pain and sweat.
Attempting the track during winter can be treacherous and should only be done if you have the skills to hike in alpine conditions.
The Travers-Sabine Circuit – a 4 – 7 days 80 km track – is one of the most stunning hikes in New Zealand. Check out this comprehensive post by Sam to find out more.
Short-distance tracks include walks around Lake Rotoiti or Lake Rotoroa and Whisky Falls.
Location: Gateway to the park is St Arnaud, an hour's drive from Nelson
Takaka and Golden Bay
This area is so isolated from the rest of the South Island that, to get there, you first have to pass some mountainous roads that are not for the faint at heart. The roads hug the mountains with steep drops and sharp hairpins.
Beyond the mountain roads, however, are remarkable landscapes carved out by nature. The region of Takaka has a couple of impressive caves, largely due to the abundance of lime and marble.
Rawhiti Caves
Rawhiti Caves are a short distance from Takaka township. Claimed to be one of the largest and most impressive cave entrances in New Zealand, these caves feature staggering stalactites and protruding stalagmites.
The walk to the entrance from the carpark took us about an hour. We walked under a canopy of trees and along a riverbed. It is best to wear sturdy shoes as the path might be slippery.
I’ve written a post here all about the caves I visited in New Zealand!
Location: Packard Road, Motupipi 7183
Ngarua Caves
Ngarua Caves is another impressive cave system closer to Motueka than to Takaka. Apart from the variety of stalagmites and stalactites, the caves have a set of skeletal remains of the extinct Moa.
For the price of NZD 25 per person, we were each given a safety helmet and led into the caves by a guide. The path was nicely decked with dim lighting. People used to have their marriages in the biggest cavern in the cave, known as the Wedding Cathedral.
Location: Main Road, Takaka Hill, SH 60, Motueka (towards Golden Bay), New Zealand
Te Waikoropupu Springs
Affectionately known as Pupu Springs, Te Waikoropupu holds some amazing accolades. It is the largest freshwater spring in New Zealand, the largest cold water spring in the Southern Hemisphere, and contains some of the clearest waters ever measured (DOC) – exceeded only by the Blue Lake in Nelson Lakes National Park.
All these may entice a person to jump in and savour the water. Sadly, the springs are tapu (sacred) to the Maori. No forms of water activities are allowed, but that should not dampen anyone’s awe of the clarity and calmness of the area.
Location: Pupu Springs Road, Takaka 7183
Takaka Township
A funky little town unlike those I have explored earlier. Takaka has some intriguing cafes, art shops and murals.
Village Milk (sales ceased on 9 April 2021)
Delicious unpasteurised and unhomogenised milk from a coin/ card/ credit-operated dispenser. We would happily lap up at least 2 L of milk per person whenever we visit Takaka.
Bring your own bottles. It was fun to use their automatic dispenser.
Location: 496 Abel Tasman Drive, Takaka, New Zealand 7183
Anatoki Salmon
Catch your own salmon and have it for lunch on the spot. While I have not been to Anatoki Salmon, a couple of friends who have been there, said they enjoyed the whole experience, including stuffing themselves silly with salmon sashimi.
Location: 230 McCallum Road, Tākaka 7183
Wharariki Beach
A nice and short stroll through paddocks and a coastal forest is all it takes to reach the world-famous screensaver-worthy beach. Wharariki Beach has dramatic arches and caves over a long, open beach. The waves lap over fine white sand and pound mercilessly on the cliffs, while the wind somewhat flattens whatever vegetation there is on the beach.
Location: 30 mins drive from Collingwood, and another 20 mins stroll from the carpark to the beach
Farewell Spit
The Farewell Spit is New Zealand’s longest sand spit at 35 km. However, only 4 km of it is open for public access. Owing to its remoteness, much of the area is classified as a bird sanctuary and can only be reached through guided tours.
We spent half a day having fun posing by the sand dunes – inevitably eating some too – and exploring this alien side of New Zealand. The other sand dunes I visited in New Zealand are in the Northland.
Tip: Bring along a mask or a neck gaiter to stop most of the sand from getting into your body. The wind could be strong.
Gateway to Kahurangi National Park, Heaphy Track
A classic 5D4N tramp over Heaphy Track – one of the ten Great Walks in NZ – starts from Brown Hut, 45-min from Collingwood.
You could choose to do the track either on foot or on wheels. Mountain biking is allowed on the track during the off-season period, from May to November.
We did ours in Oct 2020, ending the expedition at Karamea, West Coast, before flying – with bikes and all – back to Brown Hut. I was dead tired with several bruises to nurse but enjoyed the challenge spread over three days. Flying with the bikes tied underneath the wings was surreal.
Another fun multi-day track to consider is the Douglas Range, which covers quite a distance and requires good fitness and backcountry experience. I have not done it but may do so one day when my fitness is back to tip-top condition. In the meantime, check out this post written by Leon on his expedition on the range, including the legendary Dragon’s Teeth.
Mount Arthur
Enjoy the panoramic views atop Mount Arthur (1,795 m) in the Kahurangi National Park. The 18 km return track took us about seven hours to complete. The route to Flora carpark, where the track begins, is an uneasy drive on a gravel road. Buffer extra time if travelling in the wee hours for the sunrise summit.
Location: The start of the trek is at Flora Carpark, about 36 km away from Motueka
Ending
And that’s the end of my collection of places to visit in the Nelson Tasman region – a fascinating place I won’t mind living in – not too cold, not too hot, with just the right amount of mountains and seas.
Comment below if you think I am missing some points or if the places listed above have changed.
Enjoy your stay in Nelson Tasman!
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