Koh Ker: The Forgotten Khmer Pyramid

The Egyptians have their Giza pyramids, the Mexicans have their Mesoamerican pyramids, and so do the Cambodians. They have a seven-tiered pyramid named Koh Ker to boot.

The temple is listed on the UNESCO site as a tentative candidate in 2020.

History

Koh Ker is not the name of the pyramid per se but the capital of the Khmer Empire under King Jayavarman IV in 900 AD. However, the impressive and unusual seven-tiered 36 m high structure – Prang or Prasat Thom – has captured the eyes and sighs of visitors such that its name is lost, and it is now synonymous with the whole archaeological site.

King Jayavarman IV is not to be confused with King Jayavarman VII. The latter lived in the 12th century and was responsible for Angkor Thom and completing the construction of Angkor Wat after years of struggle against the Cham shortly after the passing of King Suryavarman II – the man who started Angkor Wat. Koh Ker came two centuries before Angkor Wat.

Unlike most of the other Khmer capitals, King Jayavarman IV decided to move his capital more than 100 km away from the traditionally popular Angkorian cluster, presumably due to the origin of his beginning. His son would later move the capital back to the Angkor region after his death, leaving the site to be invaded by nature before its ‘discovery’ by French adventurers in the 19th century, who looted several items back to France.

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Getting There

There is no public transport to Koh Ker from Siem Reap; you’ll need private transport for the 3-hour ride to the site. Either find a tour group to go from your hostel or charter a private car.

Beng Mealea, another impressive archaeological site with overgrown vegetation, can be combined with your visit to Koh Ker from Siem Reap.

We planned our visit to Koh Ker and Beng Mealea with an early morning visit to Prasat Preah Vihear, a UNESCO World Heritage site, travelling from Sra’aem (the nearest village to Prasat Preah Vihear) to Siem Reap. This trip is doable as a return journey starting from Siem Reap. However, be prepared for an early start and a late end and buffer USD 100 for a private car.

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Opening Hours and Ticket Price

7.30 AM – 5.30 PM

Cost: USD 10

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Our Visit

Unlike most of the similar trips taken by others on the internet, we began our journey from Sra’aem in the direction of Siem Reap. We spent the better part of the day exploring Prasat Preah Vihear within the hour of its opening as its first visitors.

Back in Sra’aem, we negotiated for a private ride to Siem Reap with stops at Koh Ker and Beng Mealea for USD 90. 

The Journey from Sra’aem to Koh Ker

The journey from Sra’aem to Koh Ker began as a dusty and bumpy ordeal that would have been disastrous under wet weather conditions. The nasty road transformed into a tarmac road once we hit another highway. 

We bought tickets from a booth located 3 km away from the main temple complex. This last 3 km was on a gravel road through the forest where small edifices lurk. There were signs staked by the road, indicating the potential presence of landmines within the jungle.

Our driver dropped us in a sparse carpark next to a slew of eateries. We had our tickets stamped while eating by a bored officer who wandered from his position by the entrance. That was how Koh Ker was. It was empty! Unlike the congested Angkor Wat.

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The Temple Complex

The long walk and my first sight of the pyramid were as striking and memorable as my first visit to the Taj Mahal.

The tunnel of vegetation towards Koh Ker would only further stoke the anticipation. At the end of the tunnel was the full magnitude of the pyramid. Koh Ker rightfully sitting on its throne, its vicinity cleared of any shrubs or trees that could obstruct its presence.

Staircases run by the side of the pyramid, and we could climb to its summit.

Prasat Krahom, the second largest structure in the complex, did not receive as much tender loving care and attention as its bigger brother. But it still makes for some interesting photos.

And that was all it was. Next on the agenda: Beng Mealea. We have another temple to run.