Jiufen 九份: The Beautiful Taiwanese Mountain Town
Nestled in the mountains of northeastern Taiwan, Jiufen (or Jioufen, 九份 ) is a charming and picturesque town. With its narrow alleys, traditional teahouses, and stunning views of the sea and mountains, Jiufen offers a glimpse into Taiwan’s rich history and culture.
I visited Jiufen almost a decade ago, and that left a lasting impression on me. So when the opportunity arises to revisit Taiwan for two weeks – this time with my best friend – Jiufen ranks at the very top of our list.
I revisited Taiwan in Jan 2023. This post contains affiliate links that cost nothing to you but support my blog! It may also be updated periodically. Cheers!
Jiufen and Spirited Away
Nearly every article thinks that the award-winning Japanese animated film, Spirited Away, was inspired by the Taiwanese town of Jiufen. The movie about a lost girl working in a bathhouse for spirits to reclaim her parents has a setting of narrow lanes and red lanterns, which look similar to Jiufen.
However, the creator has pointed out that the setting was fictitious and a product of his imagination. But that does not stop businesses and writers from propagating the false claim. Another close contender to Jiufen is in Chongqing Hongyadong, which exudes the same vibes too.
The Meaning Behind The Name Jiufen
Jiufen 九份 – 九 Jiǔ: nine and 份 Fèn: portions/ servings/ shares – was thought to have nine households living in the village back in its gold mining days (see history below). When supplies arrived, they were divided into nine portions, hence the name.
However, scholars later examined the claim and believed that before the gold mining industry flourished, Jiufen was known for producing camphor oil and had 90 camphor oil stoves, with 10 stoves making up one portion, totalling nine portions.
However, if you were to ask me, I would think it is the miserable weather in Jiufen. It rains nine out of ten days – which makes far better sense. Remember to bring your poncho and umbrellas!
Jiufen History
The quaint mountain town of Jiufen has a rich and fascinating history that goes back to the Qing Dynasty, from 1683 to 1895.
Originally a village, Jiufen became prosperous as a gold mining town during the Japanese occupation of Taiwan from 1895 to 1945. During this time, many Japanese miners and their families built Jiufen’s unique architecture and infrastructure, including its famous narrow alleys, tea houses, and lantern-lined streets. This may have partially explained Jiufen’s similarity to the movie Spirited Away since it was Japanese-influenced??
After the gold rush ended, Jiufen fell into decline and was largely forgotten until the 1980s, when it was rediscovered by filmmakers in the critically acclaimed movie “A City of Sadness 悲情城市“. The film put Jiufen back on the radar to become a popular tourist destination that could only become even more popular as the days go by.
Travelling to Jiufen
By public transport
There are several ways to travel from Taipei City to Jiufen. Do the route in reverse to travel from Jiufen back to Taipei.
By bus
From Zhongxiao Fuxing MRT 捷運忠孝復興站 Bus 1062
Take the Taipei City Bus No. 1062, which departs from Zhongxiao Fuxing MRT Station (Exit 2) and stops at Jiufen Old Street. The journey takes about 1 hour as it goes uphill over 23 stops between Zhongxiao Fuxing and Jiufen. It costs around NTD 108 for a return fare via the EasyCard.
From Banqiao 板南/ Ximengding 西門町 Bus 965
Taipei City Bus launched a new express bus route, the 965 “Banqiao-Jinguashi” in 2018. This new bus route is much more convenient for most travellers from Taipei, as Bus 965 stops at Ximending. Most importantly, its boarding point is closer to Taipei Main Station. However, if you are staying in the East District of Taipei City, it makes better sense to take Bus 1062.
It takes about four stops by MRT from Taipei Main Station to Banqiao. Thereafter, it is another 19 stops to Jiufen, taking an hour as well as around NTD 100 for a round trip via the EasyCard.
By train and bus
From Taipei Main Station 台北車站 to Ruifang to Jiufen Bus 788/ 827/ 825
Catch the train from Taipei Main Station from platform B3 to Ruifang (check the timetable). Then transfer to bus 788, 827 or the weekend-only bus 825 from the front station to Jiufen Old Street.
It takes about 1 hour from Taipei Main Station to Ruifang Station. Bus 788 takes eight stops to Jiufen; Bus 827 takes nine stops; while Bus 825 takes five stops. It will be faster if you were to take the buses on the weekdays.
The round trip from Taipei Main Station to Ruifang Station via train is about NTD 100, and the basic fare for the bus starts from NTD 15 via the EasyCard.
By tour
If you find arranging the different legs of transportation difficult, then take the most comfortable option and opt for a day trip from Taipei to Jiufen.
By private transfer
Thinking of spending more than a day in Jiufen? Arrange for a private shuttle to and fro Jiufen at your convenience.
By Private Transport
You have the most flexibility and convenience with your private car. The downside, however, is the lack of parking space in Jiufen. If you drive to Jiufen, make sure it is on a non-peak period. The 38 km journey from Taipei City to Jiufen Old Street should take around 45 minutes on a good day. Drive cautiously on the narrow mountainous road and give way to the bulky buses.
If you feel adventurous enough, want to save money, travel faster, and enjoy the views from the ride, consider renting a scooter up the bendy routes. Be warned that this is not for the faint of heart! Check that the weather is fine enough to travel via scooter.
Best Time to Visit Jiufen
The weather in Jiufen is generally pleasant all year round, but as I have mentioned above, it rains with a varying intensity almost every 9 out of 10 days, so have your umbrellas and raincoats ready.
The best time to visit Taiwan is anywhere apart from July to September when the destructive monsoon period occurs. But with climate change, monsoons may hit earlier or later.
Leave out the Lunar New Year period, which falls in either January or February, when locals are out travelling on their week-long break.
If you’re looking forward to smaller crowds and shorter queues, visit Jiufen during the weekdays.
Attractions in Jiufen
Explore Jiufen Old Street
It was fun wandering through the maze on Jiufen Old Street, which begins at the bus stop. You have lanes that wind uphill, staircases that lead to coastal views, and streets busy with people heading for food, photos or shopping.
In all, Old Street is touristy, but it still holds its charm. Stop by the staircase leading towards Amei Teahouse for one of the most photogenic shots in Old Street. Even better – wait for the lanterns to light up after sunset! That is when the streets come alive like the streets in Spirited Away.
Enjoy wandering down the streets and shophouses? Well then, you might enjoy a trip to Luang Prabang, Laos, or Penang, Malaysia!
Indulge in Local Fare in Jiufen
There are plenty of food options to sample along the old streets of Jiufen. Some stalls have seats within, while several are more of a takeaway. While you are in Jiufen, try some of the recommended noms below:
Taro Ball (We visited Grandma Lai’s Taro Balls 賴阿婆芋圓)
A must-eat and the first thing I gunned for in Jiufen.
The taro balls are a dessert served in slightly sweet gingery soup with beans (around NTD 50). What makes this dish so popular is the chewy texture of the balls. You can see the chefs busy at work making the balls by hand. Have it hot or cold in the sweet drink, or dry on a wooden stick.
Side note: I was a tad disappointed with the taro balls, perhaps due to too high an expectation from a decade ago? The taro balls from other dessert shops in Taiwan and Singapore were a lot chewier. Taro balls in Jiufen were slightly too light/ less dense for me.
Peanut Ice Cream Roll (Consider Ah Zhu Peanut Ice Cream 阿珠雪在燒花生捲冰淇淋)
I’m not a big fan of crushed peanuts, so we didn’t make a beehive for it. The dessert is a thin crepe layer filled with peanut powder and topped with two scoops of ice cream (around NTD 40).
Glutinous Rice Cake (Consider Ah Lan Hakka Glutinous Rice Cake 阿蘭草仔粿)
These delicious rice cakes are made fresh every day and feature a variety of flavours like the comforting sweet red bean and the savoury salted vegetables. Apart from rice cakes, the stall sells Taro Cakes as well. Prepare to spend around NTD 15 per cake.
Braised Pork Rice/ Fish Balls (We visited Zhang Ji’s Traditional Fish Balls 張記傳統魚丸)
For our main meal, we shared a piping hot bowl of Braised Pork Rice 滷肉飯 (NTD 40), a bowl of assorted fish balls (NTD 60), and some vegetables (NTD 50). Fuzhou balls 福州丸 (NTD 60) are like fish balls but bigger with meat fillings within. Make sure you savour them slowly as the juices within can scald!
Side note: The braised pork rice was okay when compared to my best friend who makes the best braised pork rice in the world!
Boba Tea (We visited 幸福堂 Xing Fu Tang)
Our attention was captured by the beautiful attendant making boba from scratch across the glass.
Xing Fu Tang makes their boba fresh. Catch them in action – kneading, moulding and frying the balls. We enjoyed a cup of black sugar boba in fresh milk for NTD 40.
While waiting, have your fortune told at the back of the stall. Pick a stick and grab a piece of paper with the corresponding number from the drawer!
Egg Waffle Ice Cream (We visited 菓燈 Golden 1889)
A cute cafe with a beautiful interior, Golden 1889 sells a variety of egg waffle desserts. As chocolate fans, we went with their Chocolate Ice Cream Egg Waffle for NTD 150. Their mango shaved ice looks divine, but it was not mango season when we visited.
Shop the Old Street
I love old streets of any kind. They are lined up with quirky shops selling assorted souvenirs or strange stuff that you didn’t know you needed. We dived into several shops selling trinkets made by local designers, like jewellery, posters, T-shirts and this animal paperweight that can transform into a multi-head screwdriver. Photos weren’t allowed, so that is all I can provide.
My best friend bought a small toy car for a friend’s kid and two furry dustballs (Susuwatari in Spirited Away) keychains for a friend, while I bought a reusable takeaway pouch.
We also saw a shop selling old-school confectionery – rock chocolate, hamburger sweets, cola gummies shaped like a bottle, etc. – that brought up a lot of nostalgia.
Savour Tea at the Teahouses
There are many tea houses on Jiufen Old Street. The most iconic of them all is the Amei Teahouse 阿妹茶樓, which looks almost like the bathhouse in Spirited Away. Amei Teahouse opens from 8.30 am to 12 am on most days and is a very popular teahouse in Jiufen. Expect long lines, especially on weekends or holidays.
As with all teahouses, the attendant would teach you the ways of making and savouring tea. Making tea is an art that is best savoured slowly, perhaps with snacks and a lovely view by the side.
If you would like to take the classical shot of Amei Teahouse, head over to the opposite tea house, the Skyline Tea House 海悅樓觀景茶坊, for some more tea sampling.
We also visited Yu Zi Fan Shu Teahouse 芋仔蕃薯 for dinner as it was the only place selling real meals – and not snacks – in the evening. The entrance into the teahouse was a tunnel, perhaps made to be like a replica of a mining shaft. It was a long walk from the entrance to a very Chinese teahouse/ restaurant that doubles as a museum or antique shop. The food errs on the pricey side but tasted decent.
Time Travel at Shengping Theatre 昇平戲院
Shengping Theatre was at the forefront of the times back in its heyday. The Baroque-style architecture has its first floor filled with six-seated long wooden benches, and could hold an audience of 500 – 600!
The theatre was originally built using Taiwanese Cypress and was the only entertainment venue in the vicinity. It was rebuilt again in 1934, having been affected by natural disasters.
Admission is free.
Find yourself imagining what entertainment was like back in the 1940s through the numerous old posters, a well-preserved retail stall, an old movie projector and the ticketing booth. The theatre is open for visits from 9.30 am to 5.30 pm on the weekdays and till 6 pm on the weekends.
Rent a Qipao
Visitors to Bangkok rent traditional attires to wander around Wat Arun. While in Penang, I saw ladies in kebaya strolling down the stairs of the century old building.
Do the same in Taiwan and hire a beautiful qipao/ cheongsam in Jiufen’s atmospheric red lantern-decked old streets!
Hike up the mountains of Jiufen
Keelung Mountain 基隆山
Walk up Mt. Keelung (588 m) if the weather is fine. What awaits is a panoramic view of Jiufen, the coast and maybe even the tall tower of Taipei 101. Buffer at least 2 hours for the 1.9 km return route for the multiple steep steps up.
Teapot Mountain 無耳茶壺山登山
The mountain is named as such because it looks like a teapot without a handle.
From another perspective, the mountain looks like a fierce lion hence is also called “Lion Mountain 獅子岩山”.
Teapot or lion, the mountain packs a workout with unparalleled views of the coast, Mt Keelung and the countryside.
Dedicate at least 2 hours for the trail. You may chance upon the remains of a Japanese Shinto Shrine 金瓜石神社石燈籠 if you’re doing a loop.
Visit the Golden Waterfall 黃金瀑布
Located on the roadside from Jinguashi, the Golden Waterfall is not an easy destination to get to from Jiufen, but well worth your time to get there to see for yourself. As its name suggests, water gushes down golden-hued stones, coloured by rich deposits of heavy metals.
Spare yourself from the effort and time to plan around the attractions of Jiufen by joining this affordable tour. Otherwise, take Bus #826 or #856 from the direction of Ruifang Train Station towards Jinguashi.
Marvel at The Remains of the 13 Levels 十三層遺址
Also known as the Potala Palace of the Mountain Mine, “The Remains of the 13 Levels” is an abandoned smelter built during the Japanese Occupation.
The operation ceased in the 1970s when copper and gold deposits had been exhausted. While the building is still closed from visits due to the poisonous heavy metal deposits, that doesn’t stop avid photographers from visiting in the evenings for some great nightscape photography!
Night or day, the abandoned site still looks surreal.
The site has another name – Castle in the Sky, another inspiration from Hayao Miyazaki’s 1986 work, Laputa – as it lights up, and appears to float, against the inky dark mountainscape from 6 pm to 9 pm.
Take bus #856 or #826 and alight at Shuinandong Station 水湳洞站. However, take note of the timings at night, or you may have to catch a taxi back.
Learn History at Jinguashi Gold Ecological Museum 金瓜石黃金博物館
Explore an experience back in time when Jiufen was once a gold mining village.
Jinguashi Gold Museum is worth a visit to learn more about the gold-mining culture and lifestyle back then. Most importantly, the museum is a short 10 minutes away from Jiufen – all buses to Jiufen will pass the museum.
There are exhibits about the mining tunnels, antique mining machines, and even a record-breaking gigantic gold bar weighing a hefty 220 kg on display!
I sat in front of a 5.5 tonne solid gold Buddha while travelling in Bangkok.
Places to Stay in Jiufen
For my visit, I stayed at the Sunshine B&B, in a room on the higher floor facing a roundabout and the mountains.
The room was richly furnished with an ensuite toilet. A heat pump and dehumidifier kept the place warm and dry as it poured outside. The complimentary breakfast was waffles, a tea egg and assorted fruits, with a cup of latte or tea.
If you’re a solo traveller looking for something more budget-friendly, check out Jiu Wow Box Inn for a capsule bed.
Capsules are my favourite kind of budget accommodations as they have privacy curtains that demarcate a space reserved entirely for you. I stayed in capsule-like hostels in Queenstown, for my solo 3D2N trip to Ho Chi Minh City and the recent Taiwan dive trip at Liuqiu Island as well.
Looking for something novel? Jiufen Aromatherapy B&B offers a homey, rustic stay in its century-old stone house. The rooms face the mountains and have a passionate host who could enthusiastically introduce you to all the attractions around Jiufen. Cat lovers would enjoy staying in this B&B that also offers aromatherapy services.
More Travel Tips for Jiufen
- Be Green. Bring your own utensils/ foldable containers. Some of the stalls use disposables. Let’s all do our part and cut down on waste!
- Stay dry. Pack your umbrellas and ponchos, or you’ll have to buy them for a touristy price from the shops.
- Plan to visit during the off-season. Unless you enjoy the lively atmosphere of squeezing with others…
- Book your accommodations in advance. Especially for places that are within walking distance from Old Street, or if you would like a complimentary parking space.
- Have enough cash. Most stalls still accept cash only. There is an ATM somewhere in the middle of Old Street.
- Visit Jiufen Old Street after dusk. That’s when the red lanterns light up the narrow lanes. The lights went off around 9 pm.
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