HeHuanShan 合歡山: A Hiking Adventure in Taiwan

Hehuanshan/ Mt HeHuan/ 合歡山, located in central Taiwan, is a beloved destination for hikers and nature lovers.

I had the good fortune of exploring two of its trails, admiring the stunning mountain vistas, and observing the inquisitive native alpine birds during a two-day trip just before the Lunar New Year.

So without ado, let’s get on to the hikes, accommodation options and transport methods for this gorgeous mountain!

I visited Hehuanshan in Jan 2023. This post contains affiliate links that cost nothing to you but support my blog! It may also be updated periodically. Cheers!

Baiyue 百岳 (100 peaks of Taiwan)

Hehuanshan is home to five Baiyues: 

1. Main Peak 主峰 (3417 m)
2. North Peak 北峰 (3422 m)
3. East Peak 東峰 (3421 m)
4. West Peak 西峰 (3145 m)
5. Shimenshan/ Mt. Shimen 石門山 (3237 m)

For those unfamiliar, Baiyue – bai 百: hundred, yue 岳: mountain – is a list of 100 mountains in Taiwan. The list was curated by a Taiwanese hiking legend, Lin WenAn 林文安, in the 1970s, based on criteria such as uniqueness 奇, danger 險, height 峻, and beauty 秀 of the peaks.

Of the 100 peaks, 69 are found in the Central Mountain Range 中央山脈, 20 in Xueshan Range 雪山山脈, and the remaining 11 in the Yushan Range 玉山山脈. Generally, all mountains on the list are over 3000 m.

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Where is Hehuanshan?

Hehuanshan National Forest Recreation Area 合歡山國家森林遊樂區, located at the Western edge of Taroko National Park, straddles the Nantou and Hualien counties.

One of the highlights of Hehuanshan is Wuling 武嶺, Taiwan’s highest motorable pass at 3275 m. Unfortunately for us, the rest stop with a massive marble sign indicating Wuling was under renovation. However, if you’re feeling playful, check out the live camera around the area and maybe spot yourself captured here in the frame.

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Permits

Hehuanshan is extremely popular, but you do not need to apply for permits for the hikes, unlike Lake Jiaming…

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Getting There

Private Transport

Getting your private transport is by far the best option, but warning – the drive up is not for the faint-hearted!

Having travelled for two years around New Zealand, we are used to the roads there to get to our hiking spots. But the mountain roads of Taiwan are another story!

Expect a lot more hair-raising moments with its narrowness (sometimes one-lane routes!), crazy drivers, and blind spots!

Take it slow, stay in the right gear and check the convex mirrors (if any) before turning.

You would be sharing the roads with scooters, motorcycles and hard-core bicycle riders!

• From Taipei (290 km): at least 4 hours via Highway 3
• From Kaohsiung (290 km): at least 4 hours via Highway 3
• From Taichung (120 km): at least 2.5 hours via Highway 6
• From Hualien (100 km): at least 2.5 hours via Highway 8

Don’t have your own car? Check out rates for private transport here.

Or you could save all that trouble with this guided one-day tour to both Cingjing Farm and HeHuanshan.

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Public Transport

Train to Taichung

To get to Hehuanshan from anywhere, you first have to find yourself in Taichung. Get your tickets for the high-speed rail early.

Bus to Cingjing/ Qingjing

Once in Taichung, grab the bus towards Cingjing/ Qingjing Farm 清境農場. You can find the timetables on the website of the Nantou bus. Otherwise, if you are travelling from the high-speed rail station 臺中高鐵站, there are four direct buses in the morning to Qingjing Farm – 8.50, 9.35, 10.15 and 11.35. 

Bus #6664 takes about 3 hours to reach the farm and costs around NTD 233. Pay in exact cash or use the EasyCard.

Bus to Hehuanshan

From Qingjing Farm, change to bus 6658A. There are only three buses everyday at 8.20 am, 11.10 am, and 2.30 pm. Check the exact stop you intend to alight:

• Wuling 武嶺 (the highest motor pass in Taiwan)
• Songsyuelou 松雪樓 (a hotel)
• Shimenshan/ Mt Shimen 石門山 (a hiking trail)
• Hehuanshan Service Station 合歡山管理站 (food sold here)

Spare around NTD 100. The journey should take at most an hour.

Getting around Hehuanshan

As you can see, the bus timings are extremely infrequent. Apart from walking, your next best bet is to hitchhike.

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The Hikes

Hehuan Jianshan 合歡尖山 (3217 m)

Mt Jianshan leaves an impression on most people for its appearance – like a cone used in maths class. Jianshan – jian: 尖 meant sharp or pointy – was carved out of two or more glaciers moving in opposing directions.

While the peak is above 3000 m, it is strangely not classified as a Baiyue.

The trail to its summit is not long, but the mountain rises steeply (~107 m). Spare about an hour for a return journey.

There are two ways to reach the top: 

1. The north side with a newly constructed staircase-style wooden plank trail, which links to a carpark
2. The south side is mainly rocky and on dirt paths

We climbed the stairs from the carpark.

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Shimenshan 石門山 (3237 m)

Shimenshan is the easiest Baiyue to climb in Hehuan. Spare at least 45 mins for this trek, which isn’t too tough but has all the good views. The trailhead of Shimenshan is opposite the road near the trailhead of Jianshan.

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Hehuan East Peak 合歡東峰 (3421 m)

The 35th peak of Baiyue has a trailhead located near the Hehuanshan Visitor Center 合歡山遊客中心, which explains its popularity. If you’re staying at Songsyuelou, you can enter this trail from the back of the hotel.

The 1.1 km long trail rises steeply (~321 m) with certain portions requiring all fours. Spare at least two hours for a return hike.

My best friend did this trek in the early morning, hoping to catch the sunrise. I, on the other hand, was happily tucked under warm blankets while the freezing wind (it was minus one) blew. He saw no view as the fog enveloped everything.

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Hehuan Main Peak 合歡主峰 (3417 m)

The trailhead of Hehuan Main Peak is around Wuling 武嶺, so most people park their cars at Wuling and walk over. Hehuan Main Peak is an easy hike for those new to the Baiyue challenge. Check out this blogger’s recount back in 2019 (it may be in Mandarin, but the post is packed with photos).

The 3.6 km return route with an altitude difference of 230 m, takes about 2 hours to complete.

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Hehuan North Peak 合歡北峰 (3422 m)

The 32nd peak of Baiyue is said to contain the best views, which is why it is a must-do for those fit for the challenge. It is also the highest peak in the park.

The trailhead is about 3.5 km away from the Hehuan Visitor Center. Spare at least three hours for the return journey. Expect an elevation gain of 447 m.

The first leg of the hike takes you through an exposed, rocky terrain that may require the use of ropes and crawling on all fours to ascend. After approximately 1.5 hours of trekking from the trailhead, you’ll reach a massive reflector board that offers stunning views of the surrounding landscape. From there, it’s another 0.5-hour hike to the summit. Despite the challenges posed by the rugged terrain, the hike is not overly strenuous for us and is well worth the effort for the breathtaking scenery.

It could get windy and chilly at the top!

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Hehuan West Peak 合歡西峰 (3145 m)

To tackle Hehuan West Peak, you’ll need a full day of 8-10 hours. It shares the same trailhead as the North Peak.

Although it’s the shortest of the Baiyues, don’t underestimate the undulating trail that will have you climbing and descending five false peaks before you reach the remote summit. But the stunning panoramic views of nearby peaks like Xueshan 雪山圈谷, Dajianshan 大劍山, Jiayangshan 佳陽山, and Shouchengshan 守城大山 will make every step worth it.

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Accommodation

For my 2D1N trip, we stayed at Songsyuelou 松雪樓. 

Situated at an elevation of 3150 meters, Songsyuelou, our Song Syue Lodge, is the highest hotel in Taiwan that is conveniently located next to the Hehuan Visitor Centre 合歡山遊客服務中心.

Owing to that, it is a highly sought-after accommodation option, hence, reserving a room in advance is important, especially during peak seasons. The room rates for two people range from TWD 3200 to TWD 4100, and while it may be slightly more expensive, the breathtaking views of the Hehuan mountain valley make it worth the cost.

There are more accommodation options around Qingjing Farm, about 40 mins to an hour’s drive from Hehuanshan.

Maple Leaf Holiday Villa (清境楓葉山莊民宿) is one of the lodges – I dare say – closest to Hehuanshan, discounting Songsyelou. This 3-star lodge has excellent views of the mountains and has a delicious breakfast and free parking space.

Those with young children could consider spending a night or two at Chingjing Abin Minshuku (清境木木杉阿彬民宿). They have rooms fitted with an indoor playground, complete with slides and nets to keep your young ones busy. As with the previous villa, the adults get to enjoy the peaceful mountainscape while the kids play.

And if you want a romantic stay in a castle by the mountains – to propose maybe? 😏- Arts Castle is the option for you. You could easily fool others that you’re anywhere but Asia with a photo of the castle amidst a backdrop of the Milky Way.

For those without cars, consider staying within walking distance to Qingjing with Cingjing Suwu B&B (清境宿霧山宛) or Bolekai B&B (清境柏克萊民宿). Both are within 8 – 10 mins walking distance to the bus stop/ tour pickup points.

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Best Time to Visit

The best time to visit Hehuanshan is from late autumn (Oct – Nov) to early spring (Feb – Mar) when the weather is cool and dry, and the skies are usually clearer.

During these months, you could enjoy stunning views of the surrounding peaks and valleys, and experience the beauty of the alpine vegetation. However, as with all high mountains, please check the weather forecast and prepare accordingly.

We visited during January, just before the Lunar New Year week, and there was frost and fog in the early morning. Lucky for us, there wasn’t any snow on the roads, if not our trip would have been called off.

The typhoon season in Taiwan usually lasts from Jun-Oct, with the peak season from Jul – Sep. During this time, seasonal storms can strike the island at any time. It is not advisable to visit the high mountains during those periods.

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Conclusion

And that is all from me for Hehuanshan – the easiest mountain range to start your Baiyue collection.

Reiterating some more pointers for you to take note of:

• Book Songsyuelou early. Especially during peak season.
• Drive safely. The mountain roads are crazy there.
• Pack enough warm clothes. Weather up in the mountains is highly unpredictable. Make sure you’re layered up!
• Pack snacks/ food. The only places selling food at Hehuanshan are the Hehuan Visitor Centre 合歡山遊客服務中心, Hehuanshan Service Centre 合歡山管理站, and Songsyuelou 松雪樓.
• Prep your amazing cameras for some stunning shots of the Milky Way! The dark skies make for some lovely night views when the weather is perfect of course.