Great Walk Series: Kepler Track | Fiordland

My third Great Walk in New Zealand and my favourite thus far.

Just in case you have missed the previous two walks, they were the Abel Tasman Coastal Track and the Rakiura Track at Steward Island. 

A friend remarked that us doing so many great walks within this short time is like collecting pokemon. But all these great walks are so different! It is incredible that New Zealand can exhibit such vastly different environments.

Best Time to Visit

Great Walks are available throughout the year, but the peak season generally begins around late spring to autumn when the weather is milder, or at least much more predictable.

Alpine walks such as the Kepler Track and the Milford Track risk avalanches from winter to early spring. Proper equipment and experience are needed. Lower altitude tracks such as Abel Tasman and Rakiura do not possess such risks.

Tramping through the Kepler Track during the peak walking season meant costlier accommodation and more congestion. Doing it during the off-season shaves some bucks but know that you would be getting less daytime and more unpredictable weather conditions. On the flip side, you get snow-peaked Alps too.

Location

The Kepler Track is near the town of Te Anau in the Fiordland National Park. It is a 60 km loop track that can be comfortably completed within four days.

You could do the loop in either direction, but I would recommend doing it clockwise from the Kepler car park. That way, you would power through the most challenging part of the track in the first two days when you are still relatively fresh.

Getting There

There are four ways to enter the track.

Way One: The Conventional Path. Most trampers would go through the Kepler Track carpark – a 5 km drive from Te Anau.

Way Two: Shorten via the Water Taxi. You could catch a water taxi to Brod Bay and shave off the first 6 km of the track through a mossy forest. Costs around NZD 25.

Way Three: Easy Peasy Short Walk. If you’re thinking of accessing the track for an easy day trip, you could start from the Rainbow Reach carpark. From there, it is a two hours stroll through the mossy forest to Moturau hut located by the Shallow Bay. I saw several photographers with professional cameras and huge gadgets walking through the carpark.

Way Four: Fiordland National Park Visitor Centre. An extra 50 mins walk from the Visitor Centre to the track.

Accommodation

There are only two campsites throughout the track – Brod Bay, 5 km from Kepler Carpark, and Iris Burn Campsite, which has a corresponding hut.

Pay more for huts to save yourself from the inconvenience of the lack of campsites. Iris Burn area is cold throughout the day as it is perpetually under the shades in the valley all year round. No sunlight ever shines on it. Maybe that accounts for its spookiness after sunset.

It costs NZD 15 for a bunk bed in the hut during the off-walk season. Otherwise, a reservation is required. Expect to pay around NZD 65 for a bunk, or NZD 20 for a campsite per person, per night. I would not recommend camping on this track during winter.

The Track in Brief

Day 1: Kepler Carpark to Luxmore Hut (14.4 km)

• Challenging day as the ascent was steep
• Across the Te Anau dam to the start of the track
• Easy tramp over flat terrain in a mossy forest to slightly beyond Brod Bay
• A zig-zag steep ascent in the forest until the bushline
• Unshaded tramp over the ridgeline to Luxmore Hut in under 30 mins
• Additional side-trip to Luxmore Cave. Headlamp required.

Day 2: Luxmore Hut to Iris Burn Hut (14.6 km)

• Relatively taxing day due to the terrain and distance
• Tramp on the ridgeline
• A side trip up Mount Luxmore (1472 m) | could make it a sunrise tramp if you start early
• Gradual descent into another mossy forest
• A side trip to Iris Burn Fall
• Iris Burn Hut in a clearing surrounded by mountains

Day 3: Iris Burn Hut to Moturau Hut (16 km)

• Relatively flat and easy tramp
• Out of the valley and into another mossy forest
• Moturau Hut overlooked Lake Manapouri at Shallow Bay

Day 4: Moturau Hut to Kepler Carpark (15 km)

• Easy and flat but an accumulation of previous days’ fatigue made the day tiring
• Boardwalks across the wetlands
• Re-entered the mossy forest
• Rejoined to the start of the track and Kepler carpark

Items To Take Note

• Luxmore cave side trip. Best to do this on your first day upon reaching Luxmore Hut if time permits. That way, you’ll be able to start the second day early and do a side trip to Mount Luxmore. Remember – headlamps.
• Mount Luxmore. A must-do if the weather permits. We met some trampers who had breakfast over the summit for sunrise.
• Fill up your water before you rest for the day. Critical during winter. Water freezes overnight and renders the tap useless. You might not be able to get any water the next morning.
• Crampons, ice axes and a personal locator beacon (PLB). Safety first! There could be heavy snow along the track. Rent them in Te Anau.
• Wear layers during winter. It can get warm on the ridgeline during midday.