Great Walk Series: Abel Tasman Coast Track

Nestled in the picturesque northwestern region of New Zealand’s South Island, the Abel Tasman Coast Track Great Walk is a 60 km long scenic trail that meanders through lush forests, golden beaches, and tranquil coves. 

With the level 4 lockdown lifted and the apple harvest season done and dusted, we were finally free to check out this incredible coastal trail in the Tasman region.

I did this trek in Jun 2020. This post may be updated periodically.

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Great Walks of New Zealand

The Abel Tasman Coast Track is one of the ten – the eleventh track, Humpridge, will be added soon – Great Walks in New Zealand.

The Great Walks of New Zealand are renowned trails that wind through a variety of stunning and varied landscapes. These tracks are also carefully maintained and straightforward to navigate. Most importantly, they are accessible from major towns, making them easy to arrange transport or accommodation services.

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The Abel Tasman Coast Track

Having explored New Zealand for two years during the pandemic, I was fortunate to have visited nine of the ten Great Walks in New Zealand. The Abel Tasman Coast Track was my first walk right after the lockdown.

Of the nine walks, the Abel Tasman Coast Track is the easiest. You can even complete this track in jandals or sandals – no need for hiking shoes. The trail is also unaffected by avalanches that frequent the mountains of Kepler or Milford during Winter.

Instead of avalanches, you had tides to take note of, which I’ll discuss in a later section.

The Abel Tasman Coast Track is not a loop track – you have to arrange a shuttle back to your starting position. Most trampers begin at Marahau and end at Wainui Bay or Totaranui. In our case, we took an aqua taxi from Totaranui to Marahau.

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Best Time to Go

Anytime is a good time to visit the trail. But the best time depends on personal preferences and interests. 

The summer months of Dec-Feb are the peak season with long daylight hours, and warm weather suitable for beaches, hence the highest number of visitors. This meant crowded trails and limited accommodation availability.

The shoulder period of spring and autumn, from Sep – Nov and Mar-May, respectively, offer cooler temperatures and fewer crowds. The weather is generally stable, and the landscapes are vibrant with wildflowers and autumn foliage.

Winter, from Jun-Aug, is the off-season with the lowest number of visitors. However, the weather can be cold and wet with shorter daylight hours. With tides thrown into the mix, hiking in Winter requires careful planning, as you would not want to wait for a low-tide crossing after dark.

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Getting There

The trailhead is located at Marahau – about a 1.5 h drive from Nelson and around 3.5 h from Christchurch. You could self-drive to Marahau, or take a shuttle from Nelson, Kaiteriteri or Motueka to Marahau. Some popular shuttle companies include Abel Tasman AquaTaxi and Golden Bay Coachlines. Book your shuttle in advance, especially during peak season, to ensure availability.

You could also grab an aqua taxi to enter different points of the track.

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Accommodation

There are huts and campsites to choose from with varying prices depending on the season.

For huts located along the track, amenities are basic but comfortable. There are bunk beds, cooking facilities, and toilets. These huts require booking in advance and have limited availability.

Bunk beds cost between NZD 56 and NZD 26 per pax, per night.

If you are on a budget, there are campsites along the track to pitch your tents. The campsites come with basic facilities like toilets and cooking areas.

Campsites cost between NZD 24 and NZD 16 per pax, per night.

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My Track Experience

Day 1: Marahau to Bark Bay Campsite (24 km)

We left our car at the Marahau carpark and embarked towards our first destination – Anchorage.

While waiting for the tide to recede, we had our packed lunch – sandwiches – and spotted a native bird of New Zealand. The Weka is like an angry black chicken looking to grab your food.

As the tide receded, we crossed the soft wet sand. It was a pleasure sinking our feet into the sand. This walk was so refreshing – maybe because we were so pent up during the lockdown – that I couldn’t help but stop and take a zillion photos of the coastal landscape.

As the sun began to set, we finally reached Bark Bay. We hurriedly pitched our tent before dark and made our dinner – dehydrated camp food. We were the only two groups camping at Bark Bay Campsite that night!

Day 2: Bark Bay Campsite to Totaranui Campsite (21 km)

We started our day with a steep climb through a lush forest and descended onto the lonely beach of Onetahuti Bay.

Next came a boardwalk that led us into another forest, where the trees towered over us, providing a much-needed respite from the sun. After a half-hour amble, we reached Awaroa, where we waited for the tide to be sufficiently low – it took hours – to cross the Awaroa Inlet.

The walk across the inlet was another fun experience, sometimes with kelp or seaweed strewn at the side. It was dark by the time we finally reached Totaranui Campsite.

Day 3: Totaranui Campsite to Whariwharangi Campsite (10 km)

Day 3 was short, and we started the day closer to noon.

We crossed alternating sections of sandy beaches and lush forest to arrive at the rustic and cosy Whariwharangi Hut.

Day 4: Whariwharangi Campsite to Totaranui via Gibbs Hill (10 km)

We woke up early in the morning at Separation Point and caught the sunrise. 

After catching the sunrise, we descended to the campsite for breakfast and began the next leg of our journey up Gibbs Hill. The trail was the steepest throughout, but the view was splendid (cover photo of this blog). From there, we descended – not as steeply this time – towards Totaranui.

We reached Totaranui by late afternoon and immediately reserved tickets for the 4 pm aqua taxi journey back to Marahau.

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Ending

The Abel Tasman Coast Track is an easy and enjoyable multi-day hike for me. If you are new to multi-day hiking, this track is the best track to dip your toes in and test yourself. You could quit anytime along the trail, where the aqua taxi ferries.

Following the Abel Tasman Coast Track, my friends and I did a 1.5-month-long tour around the South Island, and completed three more tracks in the Southland, in order: Rakiura Track in Stewart Island, Kepler Track, and Routeburn Track. We ended the tour when we found jobs as calf rearers in Canterbury during late Winter.

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Helpful Pointers

• Check the tides. Especially across the Awaroa Inlet, which has no backup option. Low tides help to shave off time across the Torrent Bay and Bark Bay estuaries.
• Book your huts/ campsites. Book early during the peak season. Backcountry Hut ticket and pass cannot be used for this track.
• Sunscreen, shades and hat.
• Insect Repellants. The sandflies are notorious bloodsuckers.
• Food and cooking utensils. You have to bring in your food and cooking gear. Untreated water is provided in the huts and campsites.
• Sandals or slippers. Crossing the estuaries barefooted would leave you scarred underfoot.
• Flush toilets. They have flushing toilets instead of drop pits!
• Aqua Taxi booking. Arrange for your aqua taxi early during peak periods. We travelled during the off-season and were able to call for a water taxi from Totaranui to Marahau an hour before its departure.